Sunday, March 31, 2013

Upton Grey book review



                                       Gertrude Jekyll; Her Art Restored at Upton Grey. 

The author describes this book as a visual record of a restored Gertrude Jekyll garden. What the author does not say is that the book and for that matter the garden is a true labour of love and devotion. The book is full of superb photographs that support the text which in turn has been carefully and painstakingly researched to give an insightful and accurate history and record of Jekyll’s work and planting. I particularly enjoyed seeing the water colour of the bougainvillea by Jekyll reproduced on page 138.

Jekyll’s design ideas and use of plants make compelling reading. She was able to interplay the ‘formal’ and the ‘free’ style of design as the author describes it. Jekyll made use of plants that had fallen from fashion and used them to create a unified effect. When a visitor showed surprise at ‘’those horrid old bedding plants’’ Gertrude replied by saying that they were, ‘’passive agents in their own misuse’’. We should remember this when some of us get a little sniffy about bedding! The chapters cover the different sections of the garden and each section is discussed in detail, supported by excellent photographs.

This book and the garden at Upton Grey are important historical documents, a visual record for present day designers to study and learn from. Some people will say that a garden should not be a copy of the past but should progress and move forward, be prepared to change. But then how do we learn from the past, see what was seen in 1908, study the craft of the great designers? At Upton Grey we have the way to see just how Jekyll worked and planted. I  enjoyed reading this book and I always enjoy a visit to Upton Grey to see the garden. Rosamund always make you very welcome.
Gertrude Jekyll; Her Art Restored at Upton Grey. Published by Garden Art Press
ISBN 978 1 87067 377 8

Friday, March 22, 2013

Vaux Le Vicomte


                                                            Vaux Le Vicomte

‘’On 17th August 1661 at six in the evening, Fouquet was the King of France; at 2pm in the morning he was nothing’’ Voltaire. 

When Nicolas Fouquet (Lord High Treasurer of France, Superintendent of Finance) brought together the greatest talent of the 17th Century in France, Louis Le Vau, Charles Le Brun and Andre Le Notre to design and build his new country chateau and garden called Vaux Le Vicomte, situated thirty four miles south east of Paris, he set the fashion in France for the baroque garden for at least the next one hundred years.

It must be understood that in all the great gardens of France at this time no one man was responsible for the creation of chateau and gardens, they were in fact an amalgamation of many talented men and minds. Of course, this could lead to artistic and temperamental differences as happens when great minds and even greater egos come together. In the case of Vaux and again at Versailles Le Notre, Le Brun and Le Vau all worked well together and were in fact friends.
Front view of the chateau

The driving force behind the creation of Vaux was Nicolas Fouquet; he was one of the few men capable of leading such an undertaking, when you consider that at times the amount of men working at the Chateau numbered eighteen thousand! The leadership of Fouquet and the creation of Vaux by these talented men was described by William Howard Adams when he wrote’ ‘’The gardens at Vaux were the most complex ever undertaken in France before, and the organising force and personality behind such a stupendous enterprise had to be the Minister of Finance himself, who could personally direct an undertaking of imperial magnitude. First, three offending villages were levelled and the River Angueil marshalled into a canal over three thousand feet long. Earth was moved to form massive terraces, parterres, and ramps, followed by tree planting on an imposing scale. A hospital was especially built for the workmen in a nearby village. When the major work was completed in 1661, the results of Le Notre’s informing genius and that of his colleagues had created nothing less than a masterpiece’’.  

The problem was that Vaux Le Vicomte became the final catalyst in Fouquet’s downfall. Work started at Vaux in 1656 and was completed enough (but not completely) to hold a ‘Grand Fete’ on the 17th August 1661, held primarily to honour the King, although this totally back fired and led to Fouquet spending the rest of his life a prisoner at the Kings pleasure.  Many reports of the Grand Fete have overestimated the number of guests, these range from three to six thousand, in fact there was only around one thousand. Whether or not you believe Fouquet should be cast as a villain or hero is a different matter and not for this article, or whether he was a victim of his own ego, history will continue to disagree on. Personally I believe he was all of these and indeed had a huge ego, but I urge you to read the excellent book ‘The man who outshone the Sun King’ by Charles Drazin and you can decide for yourself. Fouquet’s motto was; Quo non ascendet – What heights might he not reach. He never reached the heights he aspired to. Fouquet from prison wrote these words, ‘’this was the estate I regarded as my principal seat, and where I intended to leave some traces of the status I had enjoyed’’.

Despite myth, Fouquet was not the mysterious figure known as the ‘man in the iron mask’. Louis XV1 was the last man to know the identity of this person and he took the name to the guillotine. 

Andre Le Notre is unarguably the most influential and talented landscape architect ever to set foot in a garden and at Vaux he created a landscape that has yet to be surpassed.

Andre Le Notre 1613-1700

Le Notre was able to change levels, create vistas and play tricks on the eye without the aid of sophisticated surveying equipment.  This is explained by Adams discussing the large square mirror pool, ‘’Visitors to the garden of Vaux Le Vicomte experience another illusionistic effect after walking around the large square pool at the end of the lawn parterre and turning back towards the chateau the whole building is reflected in the water, even though it is more than a quarter mile distant. This is the first miroir d’ eau in the history of the art of gardening: water used as a mirror, one of Le Notre’s inventions. Unlike earlier renaissance gardens Vaux was conceived as a whole with the chateau and garden being intimately linked together, a central axis of just under two miles starting in front of the building and continuing through the centre of the chateau to the horizon. Linear perspective had been discovered and was used to perfection by Le Notre, it started to have a real revolutionary effect in art and garden design. The strong central axis displayed at Vaux demonstrates the classical order and symmetry of the design.
 

This photograph shows the vista from the tower looking along the axis. The two main parterre de broderie can be seen. They were also called ‘Tapis de Turquerie’ after the Turkish carpet which were the inspiration of the motifs. The design of this parterre is described by Michael Brix, ‘’The most important measure undertaken was no doubt the redesign of the large parterre, which Le Notre extended considerably towards the south, giving it a form that was very unusual for the age. Until that time it was common to design such a parterre as a self-contained unity: a square that was subdivided into four beds with a fountain or pool at the centre. Le Notre, by contrast, designed an elongated embroidery parterre that is divided into just two parts, with a symmetrical axis that is powerfully emphasized’’. During the 17th Century, sand, charcoal, crushed brick and coal would have been used to produce the colour required between the box plants. The parterres designed by le Notre were lost by 1875; they had been turfed over in the 1700 hundreds and were not reinstated until 1923 by Achille Duchene. The rond d’eau marks the centre of the garden.

The French formal garden as at Vaux displayed a tight control and even rigidity over nature, this can be described as ‘’Art over nature’. This does lead you to think  that nature was not considered or respected, but this was not the case and is explained by Adams, ‘’In theory and in practice, French garden art emphasized the formal subordination of nature to reason and order, there was, in fact, a wide-spread, almost romantic awareness of nature expressed by Le Notre’s contemporaries. Poets, novelists, nobles, and bourgeoisie conveyed a deeply felt and coherent appreciation of nature’s pleasures’’. Hunting was the most popular pastime of the court and of course carried out in the countryside, probably leading to an understanding and appreciation of nature.
 

The photograph on the left shows one end of the canal known as the ‘frying pan’, where boats sailing on the canal could turn. On the evening of the grand fete a large wooden whale was rowed up the canal and was the launch platform for a spectacular firework display. The photograph on the right shows the River Angueil before it is taken into the garden. The canal formed from the river was altered by 45 degrees and canalised over a length of one Kilometre. From the main axis the canal through the skill of Le Notre cannot be seen until you are literally a few feet from it, creating an element of surprise. The canal also has a stream that was diverted underground to feed the moat and pools, drain into it, a feature known as the cascade. 

The grotto at Vaux seems to rise from the square pool which forms part of the canal and was and still is the most famous feature of Vaux. The sheer size cannot be appreciated unless you stand in front of it. The grotto was designed by Le Notre or Le Brun, no one can be really certain. The figure on the left represents the River Anqueil and the right side represents the River Tiber. There are seven vaulted scalloped recesses separated by a figure representing Atlantes. The movement and shape of the surrounding steps was inspired by the Italian baroque, probably Villa d’ Este. Looking from the steps back towards the chateau, the sheer wonder of Le Notre’s masterpiece can be seen. The wonderful harmony of the horizontal planes which show the change in levels along the length of the garden that finishes with the final level of the chateau in the distance.

Vaux became the blueprint for the baroque garden style in France. Louis X1V invited Le Notre, Le Brun and Le Vau to work for him at Versailles. Vaux became the nursery for the greatest talent in France. Le Notre stayed with the King for the rest of his working life, working for the King at other chateau and palaces. The King loved Le Notre and Le Notre the King. Louis offered him a coat of arms and Le Notre being the man he was chose three cabbages and snails as his crest! Louis gave Le Notre the highest honour by allowing him to take his arm in the garden. Le Notre also famously said in his old age while being pushed by the King in his wheeled chair at Versailles, that his father would not believe that the greatest King on earth was pushing him, the humble gardener.

Vaux showed the baroque style in its most perfect form and still does to this day, being as it is the perfect example of a formal garden. The total control and subjugation of nature, a strict control imposed on the garden. The garden is a masterpiece of symmetry and geometric form. Le Notre manipulated the topography of the site, moving vast amounts of earth to gain the graduated levels he wished to see. The garden was enhanced by statues, fountains and topiary in the most perfect forms. Vaux surpassed mere horticulture; it went past simply being a garden and open air theatre but moved to an art form in its own right created by the ultimate landscape architect.

I urge you to visit Vaux, it is a place of beauty, history hangs heavy in the air.  Time your visit for one of the weekends when the water features are turned on, or stay until 11pm and see the chateau and garden lit up with thousands of candles and enjoy the fireworks in honour of the original owner. I hope you love and enjoy Vaux Le Vicomte as much as I do. The author does run guided tours to Vaux.

 

Vaux Le Vicomte

77950 Maincy

France

Tel - +33 (0) 1.64.14.41.90


Monday, March 18, 2013

Book Review. The Hermit in the Garden by Gordon Campbell

                                The Hermit in the Garden
Professor Gordon Campbell has opened the proverbial can of worms! I do not believe that anyone who reads this book will be able to look at a hermitage again in the same way. I also believe that not many people would have appreciated before that the hermitage they are seeing was probably inhabited by an actual hermit! The story of the hermitage is fascinating; Professor Campbell’s book has been painstakingly and meticulously researched with excellent supportive photographs and illustrations. This is a well written book superbly produced and more than worth the purchase price. There are at times books you have the pleasure of reading on subjects that you may not have considered before that make soulless electronic reading devices rightly redundant.
The chapter on ‘The Hermits’, those mysterious figures, makes compelling reading for a number of reasons. The main one being the lengths the garden owners went to, too procure their own hermit. How bizarre looking with our modern eyes to place an advert for such a position. On one level the aristocracy employing a hermit for entertainment leaves an uncomfortable feeling. Professor Campbell tackles this by linking the eventual demise of the hermit to abolitionism; he states that the hermit came to be ‘regarded as analogous to that of the slave’. There were other reasons for their demise in garden hermitages. As Campbell again states ‘pleasing melancholy’ was falling out of fashion. Gardens or parts of a garden were designed to invoke a feeling of melancholy in the visitor not melancholy as we think today but a desired state of mind. Campbell explains the hermitage by saying, ‘at its core lies a notion of contemplative solitude and pleasurable melancholy, but it was also a fashion’.
The chapters cover all aspects of this subject in detail; particularly interesting is the link with architecture and literature. The origins of the hermitage and its roots in Europe are also discussed and explored. Hadrian’s small house island retreat in Villa Adriana at Tivoli is seen as the catalyst for the hermitage idea. Professor Campbell discusses the different levels of the hermitage including the ones connected to some of the Royal houses of Europe. On one level a hermitage could be no more than a cave or hut but then Marly designed for Louis X1V was a pavilion or small chateau built for Louis and his friends but still with the idea of comparative solitude. Marie-Antoinette’s Le Petit Trianon and the Hameau were designed for a degree of solitude but obviously again on a grander scale. 
The garden owner once having employed his hermit would impose certain terms and conditions. Professor Campbell has discovered accounts of some of these terms as at Painshill Park in Surrey, the conditions being set by Charles Hamilton. Professor Campbell writes, ‘the late owner Mr Hamilton advertised for a person who was willing to become the hermit of that retreat, under the following among many other conditions: that he was to dwell in the hermitage for seven years; where he should be provided with a bible, optical glasses, a mat for his bed, and a hassock for his pillow, an hour glass for his timepiece, water for his beverage from the stream that runs at the back of his cot, and food from the house, which was to be brought him daily by a servant, but with whom he has never to exchange one syllable, he was to wear a camblet robe, never to cut his beard or his nails, to tread on sandals, nor ever to stray in the open parts of the ground nor beyond their limits, that if he lived under all these restrictions till the end of his term, he was to receive seven hundred guineas; but on any breach of any one of them, or if he quitted his place any time previous to that term, the whole was to be forfeited, and all his loss of time remediless. One person attempted it, but three week were the utmost extent of his abode’.
For garden historians the extensive bibliography will be useful as will the list of hermitages in Great Britain and Europe. I recommend this book it will complement any study of gardens in the 18th and 19th centuries.
The Hermit in the Garden by Gordon Campbell. Published by Oxford University press.                              

Saturday, March 9, 2013

THE ENGLISH LANDSCAPE MOVEMENT



In the early 18th Century English gardens were undergoing a cultural revolution, such a swing in fashion as to be unprecedented. London and Wise were still designing gardens with features such as knots, parterres and formal axis lines but the fashion was failing, loud voices were being exercised against the rigid geometry and symmetry of the English formal garden. One of these voices belonged to Joseph Addison. Writing in the Spectator in 1712 he stated, ‘Our British gardeners on the contrary, instead of humouring nature, love to deviate from it as much as possible. Our trees rise in cones, globes and pyramids. We see the marks of the scissors upon every plant and bush. I do not know whether I am singular in my opinion, but for my own part I would rather look upon a tree in all its luxuriance than when it is thus cut and trimmed into a mathematical figure’.  

Why did the English Landscape movement emerge? There were a number of reasons all gathering momentum since the end of the 17th Century. Firstly the death of Louis X1V in 1715 saw the conclusion of the French baroque style as an innovative design force and its influence in England waned considerably. England had also been ruled by a Dutchman, William III and his wife Mary II, and had been at war with the French; England was tired now of what it saw as foreign influence and wished for change.

Social attitudes were also changing and the formal gardens were not delivering what was desired, exercise, fresh air and conversation while enjoying a walk. The English desire to enjoy a country walk cannot be underestimated and the desire not to see the garden all at once. They wanted the garden to reveal itself sensuously, little by little as the walk progressed. This was totally unlike the formal garden that was laid out to see in its entirety along the central axis.

The weather also played a part in the change. The formal garden in France had weather more suited to open air entertainment than the English formal garden. This is described by Clifford, ‘The gardens of France were stages upon which to parade and be seen… But for how many days of the year is it possible to live in an English garden? How suitable is the English weather for parading up and down in fine clothing? England is no place for the great ceremonial occasion en plein air unless suitable shelter is at hand… In England a garden has never been primarily a place to sit in, or a place to debate in, or a place to act in; not for the English the fetes champetres of Fontainebleau and Chantilly or Pliny’s suppers at the fountain; for the English a garden has always been a place to walk about in and to play games in’.

Financial considerations also played a part in the change.  A formal garden would require constant maintenance. Clipping was needed to keep the shapes of the topiary and the box parterres. The waterworks required regular maintenance and the gravel needed weeding and raking. The amount of gardeners just to keep a formal garden running was large. Apart from the initial set up costs of the English landscape garden, which could be high, the aftercare costs were far lighter than formal gardens. Clifford explains this when he says, ‘yet when all is said one may well think the chief cause of the Great Revolution to have been economic……..but the elimination of costly frills was an obvious way to meet the demand for greater economies’.    

The pressure of how you were perceived by your peers also played a major role, it was no longer enough to be wealthy, the gentry desired to be seen as educated and well versed in the arts and classics, wealth alone was not enough to show status. This knowledge and understanding of the classics and the perception of taste was fed by the ‘Grand Tour’. The ‘natural’ element of the Italian renaissance and baroque garden seen on the grand tour was such an important element of the English landscape garden concept. The Italian gardens incorporated the bosco, a contrived but natural looking woodland or grove attached to the formal garden in which a path would wind. The important statement this bosco or grove was making was, look we are no longer scared of the natural landscape. There was a real juxtaposition between the formal and natural garden, the first English visitors on the grand tour to see these gardens such as the garden at Villa Lante viewed this naturalistic woodland setting attached to the formal garden and it appealed greatly to the English psyche. They saw this natural woodland and realised that it could be transposed into their country estates. This can be described as nature and art working together, the basis of the first English Landscape garden, derived from the gardens of Italy. Hobhouse describes this; ‘the appreciation of the dual role of nature and art in laying out gardens, which was to become such a part of English landscape garden theory, was one imbibed from Italy. The dream of the classical gardens of Rome and the Italian countryside was absorbed into the new era of William Kent and Capability Brown’. 
 

The Dying Gladiator at Rousham
The dying gladiator sits above the seven arched Praeneste at Rousham; he will be dying until the day he finally crumbles. This moving sculpture represents the gladiatorial games from ancient Rome; the gladiator having lost his fight has fallen, he lay’s on his shield with his sword on the ground next to him. Ancient Rome was represented in a garden by its architecture but also by its sculpture and art. Not all created in situ as this piece was, but a colossal amount of sculpture rightly or wrongly was transported back to England from the grand tour. Lord Burlington from Chiswick Park even brought back statues from Hadrian’s Villa to be displayed in his temple and Exedra. It is also considered that this sculpture could represent General Dormer, seriously injured at the Battle of Blenheim and who suffered from his wounds for the rest of his life.     

Landscape paintings were a main source of inspiration for the exponents of the new movement, artists such as Poussin, Lorrain, Rosa, Canaletto, and Dughet were all influential in shaping the English landscape movement. Pope wrote that ‘All gardening is landscape painting, just like a landscape hung up’. The landscape was in the process of becoming a composition. The artists used oils and canvas to depict the landscape, while the designers of the English Landscape movement used the countryside as their canvas inspired by these paintings. The British visitors on the ‘Grand Tour’ created a demand for paintings of the celebrated sites such as Venetian festivals, sea ports, the Roman Campagna, and classical, romantic and allegorical scenes. These paintings would become the blue print for the English landscape gardens and also the inspiration for the designers. Artists such as Lorrain and Poussin painted ‘Arcadian’ scenes in which ancient ruins and temples, cascades and ancient groves were seen. Henry Hoare’s garden at Stourhead was inspired by the work of Lorrain in which temples and ruins were seen in an idealized or romanticised classical landscape.

 

The Pantheon at Stourhead
Many gardens also told a story. Stourhead’s allegorical meaning, obvious then but not so now to modern minds, told the story from the ‘Aeneid’, by Virgil about the founding of Rome. Lorrain painted a landscape called ‘Coast View of Delos with Aeneas’ which shows the Pantheon. Other buildings in the painting are represented at Stourhead. The Pantheon represents part of the journey by Aeneas before he arrived in Italy. This illustration shows how these buildings were placed to be seen from various selected positions in the garden; they were called ‘eyecatchers’. They were also places where guests walking the garden circuit could stop to take refreshment and rest.

 
The designers of the new style no longer needed to be landscape architects in the school of Le Notre, obeying the rules of formality, mathematics and geometry but instead they designed by the rules of the painters, and informality and nature. They created pastoral scenes from the imagination.

The Gothic Temple at Stowe
This is a scene of pastoral calm. The garden also providing some agricultural use and displaying the beauty of the English countryside, the countryside brought into the garden. During Lord Cobham’s time at Stowe he had many buildings designed and built, by Vanbrugh and Kent. These buildings told many stories and also made many political statements.

 The new philosophy towards nature meant that it was now an equal in the relationship with man and was not simply there to be subjugated. Instead of the formal regularity the irregularity of nature was sought and as Jellicoe states, ‘ nature was no longer subservient to man, but a friendly and equal partner which could provide inexhaustible interest, refreshment and moral uplift; irregularity rather than regularity was proclaimed as the objective of landscape design’.

The old regime was under relentless attack, Plumptre explains, ‘By the last years of the 17th C formal gardening in England was coming under threat from various directions. The manner in which the concept of the garden had begun to be extended beyond regimented geometric enclosures marked the beginnings of the move from garden to landscape’.  

The ha-ha at Rousham

The ha-ha is the most important invention in garden design history. Before this boundaries had to be defined by a wall, in effect still visibly enclosing a garden. The ha-ha meant the ‘concealment of bounds’, now a garden could look as if it extended into the countryside, making the garden boundary seemingly disappear. Along with the ha-ha came William Kent, Walpole said of him, ‘he leaped the fences, and saw that all nature was a garden’. Kent saw that all nature and the landscape could be brought into the garden, the borrowed landscape idea created over three hundred years ago. Clifford explains this when he says, ‘it was the making of what lay within the boundary look like what lay outside it’. Kent was the first man to ‘consult the genius of the place’.

The epithet English Landscape movement is too simple to give true and accurate meaning; we need to break down the movement into its parts. The name will always be widely used as this is the name that most people easily recognise, but the four sub-movements are the; Augustan (neoclassical), Serpentine, Picturesque (Romantic) and Landscape (eclectic).

The Augustan period (1700-1750) was the first period of the new movement and named after Emperor Augustus, and the Augustan poets who wanted to recreate the past glories of ancient Rome. This period can also be called neoclassical because the gardens emulated or at least attempted to emulate the classical landscape and architecture of Rome and ancient Greece. As David C Stuart wrote regarding the psychological pull of the classical world, ‘The world of ancient Rome has almost always exerted a powerful appeal to men unfortunate enough to have been born after its fall’. The gardens were liberally scattered with classical architecture such as temples. Also included were grottoes, statues, groves and other illusions to antiquity. The Augustan period saw gardens such as Chiswick, and Rousham created. William Kent (family name Cant) was the most influential designer and architect of this period, Rousham being without doubt the finest garden in England.  


The Palladian Bridge at Stowe
The term Palladian is taken from the 16th century architect Andrea Palladio. Lord Burlington was one of the men responsible for the ‘neo-Palladian’ style of architecture that became the fashion in the 18th century. This beautiful covered bridge was built to allow the family and its guests to make a circular drive around the garden. The aim of this bridge was also to support a classical feel to the garden and to provide a focal point from different positions. When viewed from the Doric arch the bridge is framed between the two arches.

The ‘Serpentine’ period (1750-1783) is predominately the most well know of the four, it was categorised by a noticeably more natural theme, this naturalisation of the landscape was considered to bring the landowner closer to God, and it would bring man and nature into peaceful coexistence thus creating harmony. The gardens in this period would be ones such as, Petworth, and Chatsworth. Any formality such as a terrace, which had survived, surrounding the main house during the Augustan period was swept away now, and the turf came like a tide to the front of the property covering everything. The main designer in this period, Lancelot Brown, was not though unwilling to add the odd temple if it suited his design, as can be seen at Petworth.

S. Harmer 2009
 
The park at Petworth
The illustration shows the grass at Petworth running right up to the house. There was once a formal garden by London and Wise but Brown removed it entirely. Brown sculpted the landscape, creating a large lake in the middle distance, and built hills from the spoil. He planted what looked like randomly grouped clumps of trees but they were in fact carefully positioned. If you look at the rolling hills in the park you will see they are sensuously shaped and resemble the soft curves of the female form, a deliberate move by Brown. All formality had gone and Brown created these serpentine shapes and lines. This period was to be eventually considered bland and boring, and Brown in many people’s eyes is either the hero or the villain of English garden design.

The ‘Picturesque’ period (1783-1813) was the third and came about as a reaction against the Serpentine period; Brown had fallen out of fashion. This period saw gardens move away from places to entertain and walk, but instead took the form of a rugged and rustic landscape with rivers running through the land, turned if possible into raging torrents, with features such as rustic bridges and cascades. The only connection the picturesque had with the desperately out of fashion baroque was that both were better viewed from height to gain the full perspective. This style of garden worked far more effectively in the north of England with the topography lending itself well, far better than in the flatter south. This period can also be called the ‘Romantic’ period; the meaning of the word in this case describes a feeling of strong emotion. The gardens were to be held in awe and wonder and the awe inspired by untamed nature.
As a reaction to Browns landscapes the Picturesque movement came to the fore. The landscape was to become ‘Romantic’ and moved away from the tameness’ of Brown. The garden was to become rough and rugged with irregularity and a natural wild aspect brought into the garden. The scene in the illustration is best viewed from height and includes a ruin creating the Picturesque image at Scotney. Rosa was known as ‘Savage’ Rosa his paintings inspired this style of design. The idea was to create torrents and crags and a general natural landscape.  The designers wanted to create a Picturesque view from each window of the associated house.

The ‘landscape’ period (1800-1900) was the last and was characterised by the landscape movement coming back around in almost a full circle. The course of action taken was to reintroduce some degree of formality back around the house but a very eclectic mix of English and European style, aesthetically this style did not always work, and did not always lend itself to any degree of harmony. The style saw the emergence of the mass carpet bedding schemes of the Victorian era and the ‘Gardenesque’ style. Designers such as Repton and Barry were to the fore and the period saw gardens such as Trentham Park.

 



Hamilton at Painshill decided for his amusement and the amusement of his guests to build a hermitage in the park and employ a hermit to live in it for seven years. If this task was undertaken successfully the hermit was to receive a fortune which today would be around £90,000. The hermit was employed and agreed to the conditions of service. He was to be given a bible, optical glasses, a mat for the floor, a pillow, an hour glass to keep the time and he was to receive water to drink and his food would come from the house. He was also to wear a goat’s hair robe and must never cut his hair, beard or nails and never leave the park. These harsh conditions took their toll, within the first month the hermit was found drunk in the local pub and sacked.

We still have over one hundred English Landscape gardens in the country, most bar Rousham underwent a series of changes with the succession of different designers. This summer take the time to visit some of them, many need your support and as at Painshill are worthy of it.   

Monday, March 4, 2013

VILLA GAMBERAIA


                      The Garden of Princess Ghyka

The garden of Villa Gamberaia in the village of Settignano on the hillside above Florence is the most perfect example of an Italian garden. At Gamberaia the overwhelming feeling is that you are intruding into the private space of Princess Ghyka, you can feel her presence everywhere.
The view towards Florence from the garden
Gamberaia became the blue print for the renaissance of the Italian garden style; it was considered the best example of how an Italian garden should look. Geoffrey Jellicoe said that Gamberaia was more Italian than the Italians. Garden designers and landscape architects from England, France, Germany and America all studied Gamberaia, and wondered at its creation in such a difficult shape. Edith Wharton wrote about Gamberaia and said, ‘’The plan of the Gamberaia has been described thus in detail because it combines in an astonishingly small space, yet without the least sense of overcrowding, almost every typical excellence of the old Italian garden: free circulation of sunlight and air about the house; abundance of water; easy access to dense shade; sheltered walks with different points of view, variety of effect produced by the skilful use of different levels; and finally breadth and simplicity of composition’’. Gamberaia was the inspiration for the garden created at Villa Le Balze by Cecil Pinsent, and it is considered that Vita Sack-Ville West took inspiration from here, for the white garden, the blossom from the lemon trees and the white roses in the lemon garden impressed Vita very much. Vita was a friend of Princess Ghyka and a visitor to Gamberaia.

The lemon garden
Catherine Jeanne Keshko was the wife of Prince Ghyka, and was Rumanian. She became Princess Ghyka and bought Gamberaia, although her husband probably never visited the villa. Princess Ghyka disliked men and lived with her lover Florence Blood, who has been described as both British and American, depending on which author you read. Florence Blood was more outgoing but Princess Ghyka led a secretive life, shunning contact with people who were not close friends as far as possible. Gamberaia become the hub of Lesbian life in this region and attracted a group of English and American female actors and authors who could lead the life they wished to, unrestricted by anti-homosexual laws such as in Britain at that time.

 Princess Ghyka employed Martino Porcina as her head gardener; he worked alongside Luigi Messeri to create Gamberaia. The garden was designed with a mix of renaissance and baroque styles on a very small site, being only around one hectare, but with simply stunning views overlooking Florence. The mistake must not be made that Gamberaia and other Florentine villas such as Le Balze are renaissance gardens; they are not, as Hobhouse explains. ‘’Although almost modern creations, they beautifully illustrate the whole renaissance formula. In both, the axial principles and use of space are easily recognizable as renaissance inspired- indeed they are nearly exaggerations of the real thing’’. The garden is designed around a Series of axis and different vista’s, it uses the open agricultural countryside to the south and also the view over Florence to the west. The hedges frame certain views to create a feeling of seclusion in parts of the garden while the lawn terrace has an open view over Florence. The villa and garden were built on a steep slope long before Princess Ghyka’s tenure, terraces had to be constructed and vast amounts of soil had to be moved. The terraces really represent the Italian agricultural method of farming on slopes and bring the garden into harmony with its agricultural surroundings. This is indicative of the Medici renaissance gardens which also had the connection with the countryside; the Medici’s originally being farmers.

The villa on the south side has a loggia that looks over the water parterres which are surrounded by tightly clipped box in geometrical shapes, and then down to the cypress belvedere where once was the ‘garenne’ the rabbit island. The shape of this area still mirrors the shape of the old rabbit island. The tree behind the belvedere is a beautiful Corsican pine. The water parterres were once parterre de broderie and were re-designed with water by Princess Ghyka, she would swim in these at night when no-one could see her. Harold Acton described the water parterres as the union of ‘’liquid and solid’’. Katie Campbell made a similar connection and wrote, ‘’with its harmonising of solid and liquid stone and watered image and reflection, the water parterres is a brilliant modern interpretation of the baroque style’’. Parterres are designed to be viewed from elevation and the water parterres at Gamberaia are no different, the loggia being that elevated area. Monty Don discussing the water parterre said, ‘’the parterre hardly reads on an initial ground level sighting. That is not to say that it is not pleasing and impressive, but the water is almost lost and the narrative jumbled. But go up-stairs to the loggia as I did and look down upon it and it leaps out as a coherent plan built around four large rectangular pools and a much smaller circular pool with a stony fountain in the centre’’.

Looking towards the water parterre and villa

The main axis and central walk is known as the bowling green and stretches for some two hundred and twenty metres. The bowling green is a stunning feature and terminates at the northern end with the nymphaeum and at the southern end with the viewing belvedere. The alley was originally lined along its entire length with cypresses, the only ones left now along the alley are situated around the nymphaeum, and these are now colossal giants, old and extremely gnarled. The bowling green is an unusual feature and is not something you would expect to see outside of an English garden, but you have to remember the Florentine gardens had become anglicised, many were owned by ex-patriot Americans and English.
Beneath this turf is the old renaissance aqueduct that brought water to the garden and then out into the surrounding farm land. The bowling green lawn is an artery that other gardens project off from, such as the grotto, water parterre and the two bosco. Edith Wharton described the use of turf in Italian gardens and on this scale at Gamberaia, ‘’it was said that lawns are unsuited to the Italian soil and climate, but it must not be thought that Italian gardeners did not appreciate the value of turf. They used it, but sparingly, knowing that it required great care and was not a characteristic of the soil. The bowling green of the Gamberaia shows how well the beauty of a long stretch of greensward was understood’’.

The nymphaeum at the northern end of the bowling green is a baroque feature that shows the connection to the renaissance and baroque in Italian garden design. It also demonstrates the connection with ancient Rome. The nymphaeum is enclosed by two walls that are decorated in rocailles work and in the niche is a statue of Dionysus or Pan, but is often considered to be Neptune. The ancient cypresses surround the nymphaeum and create a cool shady area; the water once tumbled over the figure and the two lions each side of it.

The grotto or cabinet di roccaglia which as you turn your back on the nymphaeum and walk south along the bowling green is found directly behind the villa on the left. This is a sublime space. The walls are encrusted with ornate rock work, sea shells, stones and pebbles. The grotto is the link between the bowling green level and the lemon garden and the two bosco. The area is filled with pots and urns and in the niches there are small statues and plants. There are also balustrade steps that lead to the lemon garden. Harold Acton described the grotto as, ‘’one of the prettiest open air boudoirs imaginable’’. The idea originally was possibly to use the grotto as an open air music room. Katie Campbell I think describes the grotto well when she wrote, ‘’ a path from the villa back door leads to the grotto garden, a sensuous, mysterious space whose high mosaic embellished walls and exuberant sculptures once hid secret water games’’. The possibility also exists that this area was once an enclosed flower garden.

The area above the grotto is where you will find the lemon garden and the lemon house. The lemon garden is divided into four sections. Here you will find more than just lemons but oranges, mandarins, grapefruit and kumquats, a real selection of fruit. The lemons are in perfect condition and the scent is wonderful. I can fully understand why Louis X1V filled Versailles palace and the garden with these plants, they are truly wonderful to behold. The lemon and the orange for that matter are Tuscany itself, the two so connected as to be inseparable.

Gamberaia is full of flowering plants contrasting wonderfully with the foil of the bowling green and the range of hedging plants and box topiary throughout the garden. There are a row of stunning Albertine roses in front of the lemon house which in May look simply wonderful. There are lavender are many types of Mediterranean plants all adding to the colour at Gamberaia. The plants though that are emblematic of Tuscany are the evergreens and non-more so than the Cupressus semperviren’s, these rise like pencils all over the landscape, they are proud, tall and strong and without doubt  the most beautiful and dominant tree. The Quercus ilex is another Mediterranean tree that is widely used and is the best of all the oaks. At Gamberaia this tree is used to populate the selvatico or bosco.

The last feature I will look at is the lawn terrace that overlooks Florence. The villas that are spread around the side of the Arno valley all look in towards the city, and put simply the view of Florence and especially the Duomo is one that you never forget. The low wall of this terrace has more Albertine roses on it and there are urns and sculptures of dogs and lions. The dogs it has been said are standing guard over the villa and its grounds and have been doing so for around three hundred years.  
 

Gamberaia is a beautiful garden and one that has been an inspiration over countless years, for many generations of architects and designers from countries all over Europe and America. The garden as I said at the beginning still feels the private space of the Princess; it is calm and serene and simply wonderfully designed and constructed. I do urge you to visit some of the gardens in this region, Medici villas or otherwise, but whatever you see and whenever you come, make an appointment to see Gamberaia.  

During the Second World War many villas in this area and in fact all over Italy suffered various degrees of damage, not always directly caused by the Germans but mainly by American bombing, although at Gamberaia it was German action that caused the damage. With this in mind I leave the last word to Bernard Berenson who went back to see Gamberaia after the war, ‘’Walked over to Villa Gamberaia, found it neglected, unkempt, grass not mown, trees with branches broken looking like elephants with broken tusks, the house burnt out with the beautiful courtyard fallen in, vases and stone animals on parapet thrown down and broken – and yet the place retains its charm, its power to inspire longing and dreams, sweet dreams. Its beauty though so uncared for is still great enough to absorb one almost completely, the terraces, the ponds, the great apse of cut cypresses, the bowling green as you look at it from the grotto toward the south like a great boat sailing through space, the view over the quiet landscape of the Chianti hills and further over the domes and towers to the snow-capped Apennines and the Arno glimmering in the plain’’.